DIY home automation lighting has been around since about 1980 and while the advantages homeowners hoped to gain such as convenience, energy savings and security were at times outweighed by the fact that these early systems were not always reliable. These early devices relied on a communication protocol known as X-10 where one light switch or receptacle would talk to the others over an existing household electrical system. As it turned out, X-10 relied on a weak signal that was subject to interference from everyday appliances that would create electrical line noise.

Turn the clock ahead 20 years. Many of those early X-10 systems are still in use today but the technology has advanced tremendously. Enter UPB. UPB or Universal Powerline Bus has proven to be 100 to 1000 times more reliable than the best X-10 systems in existence due to its signal strength and speed, approaching that of hard wired systems.

Many times we’ve been asked “how can I automate the lighting in my home?”. While the answer requires knowledge of some specifics involved, it is well within the ability of those who can safely replace a light switch or a receptacle outlet to accomplish. The next obvious question people have is “how do all the lights know when to turn on, off or dim?” A little basic background information on the technologies involved makes things a lot simpler.

We live in an age of networks and inter-networks. Home automated lighting in that regard, is no different. There are three broad types of automated lighting controls; those that are wireless such as Z-Wave, those that are hardwired and installed as the house is being built and those that communicate over a households existing electrical wiring such as X-10, UPB (Universal Powerline Bus) and a few others. All of these protocols (or communication standards) can operate as a single, stand alone system or can be integrated with more complex home automation and security controllers for a complete smart home solution.

Obviously, from a practical standpoint, you can’t tear down your walls to install new or additional wires or switches so I won’t go into those types. Wireless systems such as Z-Wave work very well but are subject to RFI (radio frequency interference) at times and rely on using a “mesh” network where all devices talk to all the others and repeat any missed instructions. For the best retrofit DIY lighting automation solution, the technology that appears to have clear advantages over the others is UPB. As mentioned before, it operates over the existing AC power lines in a house and is extremely reliable, unlike its older cousin the X-10 protocol. A simple plug-in adapter and free downloadable software enables full control of the lighting schema when combined with elegant UPB electrical switches and electrical outlets, all from the power of your PC.

Simply turning a light on, off or just dimming is not really a big deal from a PC but the real power comes when you decide that you would like to combine switches to form lighting scenes or zone lighting. You see, these switches are not your ordinary run-of-the-mill variety. Sure there are some that just handle the standard on, off and dim but others are designed to handle scene or zone lighting with the push of a button for any number of rooms or even the whole house, if you so desire.

Also, it is easy enough to scrap your old security panel at a later date and replace it with a unit that integrates other systems in a home such as heating and air conditioning, surveillance, home theater, swimming pool or jacuzzi, water sprinklers, you name it and just about anything else you can imagine. How about a security breech issuing an “all lights on” command? Or maybe you’d like to check on your home or make adjustments from anywhere in the world from your PDA or laptop? The possibilities are virtually endless.

If you can manage to program a remote control for your TV, VCR or whatever, you already have the basic skills…logic! No need to learn complex programming languages, just simple, plain, down-to-earth English.

Inadequate electrical capacity is mainly due to increasing the number of devices that consume electricity in your home like new heating and cooling equipment, frost free refrigerators, clothes dryers, water heaters, electric ranges and ovens, dishwashers, and other powerful electric motor driven tools and appliances.

As you add devices to your home, the power supply may become inadequate. If you have indicators like fuses or circuit breakers tripping, or lights dimming, it’s time to carefully look at your circumstances before equipment failure, fire, or other problems arise.

- 5 Causes of Inadequate Power in Your Home -

1.Limited service panel capacity

When the overall demand from total electrical devices is greater than what the panel is able to supply, the main service panel will likely fail, frequently. Excess demand indicates that the panel rating is less than needed or the panel might be limiting capacity because it has no space left for more fuses or circuit breakers.

In either case it’s time to make a circuit map to calculate demand and compare it with the capacity of the main panel to supply. If you find the power demand is less than the capacity and there is no room for more breakers, then a sub-panel might be the answer. Conversely, if the overall demand is greater than the main panel ability to supply, then you will need a licensed electrician to install a new main panel.

2. Overloaded circuits

Another use for the circuit map is to determine if demand on the circuits are greater than the amperage rating of the circuit controlling it. It is important to note peak demands of appliances that may draw more power on starting and create a power surge that trips the breaker.

A power surge that doesn’t trip the breaker is indicated by lights dimming when an appliance turns on. Appliances that produce surges should have their own separate circuit designed to tolerate the surge.

To prevent the risk of fire do not exceed the safe amperage of the circuit. Blown fuses or tripped breakers indicate an overloaded circuit. Do not replace breakers with ones of higher amperage just because they fail. Instead run a new circuit from the main panel that is within the supply capacity.

3. Insufficient number of outlets

A general recommendation is to have at least one outlet for every 12 feet of wall, ground fault interrupted outlets in bathrooms and exterior walls, one outlet for each counter top in the kitchen, or as required by local codes.

The most obvious indicator that more outlets are needed is when you start to use multi-outlet extension cords on a regular or permanent basis. Most low cost extension cords are not designed to carry heavy amperage demanded of permanent wiring. Excess loads may cause overheating and fire.

Computer workstations can require outlets for more than two devices from a single dual receptacle wall circuit. Older CRT monitors and laser printers can cause surges when they are turned on. The best solution is to supply the required outlets on separate circuit(s) designed to exceed the demand. The next best option is to use a fused and surge protected uninterrupted power supply (UPS) to protect your equipment. UPS are now available for less than $100 and can protect your computer investment from power problems better than anything else. The less expensive power bars and extension cords run risks of equipment damage or fires if the circuit is overloaded.

4. Inadequate feeder lines

Older houses may have original two-wire feed lines from the power company’s nearest utility pole. One of the wires is hot, delivering 110-115 volts and the other is neutral. Obviously these lines will not power 240 volt appliances nor is the amperage likely able to power more than a few newer appliances at a time.

The electric company should replace the two wire system with a three wire system at their own expense. Since you will have to pay an electrician to install a new service panel, use your circuit map and any expansion plans to determine future demand, then size the new panel capacity accordingly.

5. Overtaxed transformer

In older high-density neighborhoods electricity demands over time have increased. In some cases the transformer serving the area may not have been increased to meet the growth in demand. Although the power companies are required to scale up supply according to demand, it is wise to check into the matter before paying to connect a larger service.

Tips

Demand Side Management (DSM) refers to actions taken on the customer’s side of the meter to change the amount or timing of energy consumption. Utility DSM programs offer a variety of measures that can reduce energy consumption and consumer energy expenses. Electricity DSM strategies have the goal of maximizing end-use efficiency to avoid or postpone the construction of new generating plants.

One of the least expensive ways to update your home is to change your lighting. Home track lighting is one viable option available to homeowners, especially those on a budget. These lights can be both stylish and affordable.

When it comes to updating your lighting, it can become overwhelming due to the enormous amount of choices available today. Home track lighting is just one of those options. If you are having trouble making a choice, you could consult with a professional to help narrow down the choices. You can also perform a search on the internet to come up with some ideas on different styles, along with the costs associated as well.

Home track lighting is available at most lighting specialty stores and home improvement centers. At these locations, you will see a wide variety of styles available. Try to choose a combination of lights that will work well with the layout and style of your home. Track lighting can often be used as secondary lighting in a room that does not feature enough traditional lighting.

Home track lighting can be used in virtually any room in the house. A popular room to use it is a recreational room or games room. On many occasions, you do not require full or bright lighting in these rooms. In addition, this style of lighting can be directed to shine on a specific area or focal point. Many homeowners point them towards a specific piece of artwork.

Once you know where the home track lighting will be installed, your next step would be to install the track itself. The fixtures themselves are easily installed to the track. Another benefit is that they can be easily moved or removed from the track as well.

Most people are comfortable installed home track lighting themselves. Just follow the simple directions that come with the lighting. If you are not comfortable doing the work yourself, just hire an electrician. You should know some basics before beginning however. Make sure the power is off before doing any electrical work. Make sure that no one else is working near the power box that could turn on the power before you are finished. Communicate with everyone in the home before starting. Once the job is completed, have it checked by a licensed electrician.

The flow of electrical power or charge is called electricity. It is a basic part of nature. It is also one of our most widely used forms of energy. Electricity in the home was not available 100 years ago. Houses used kerosene lamps and food was cooled in boxes. Heating was done through wood burning or coal burning stoves.

The demand for electricity in the home has grown through the years. The use of electricity in its early days was focused on street lighting and few industrial purposes. Wiring existing buildings were relatively high-priced making it impractical for homes to get electricity in the homes during that time (late 1980s).

Electricity was incorporated with new houses and apartments during the early 90s. In suburban areas, electricity in the homes was not achieved until the interwar period.

Electricity’s uses expand along with the continuous invention and development of appliances. Consequently, the demand for home electrical supplies also increase. Different appliances need different amounts of power for them to operate. Those that require large amounts of power are considered expensive to operate and those that don’t are considered power efficient.

Homes pay for the amount of electricity they use. Electric retail systems were developed to allow electricity to enter homes. This is done by mounting wires on poles or by special insinuation and protection of underground cables or cables hung on posts. The active phase wire and the neutral wire connect an electrical circuit from the distribution pole into the home.

Before entry of electricity into homes, it passes through meters in a meter box. Meter boxes are accurate devices measuring the amount of electrical energy used. A series of dials each with 10 numbers allows the meter to measure this.

The numbers in the meter may be arranged anticlockwise or clockwise to represent tens of thousands, thousands, hundreds, tens, or units of the amount of electrical energy. One kilowatt hour (kWH) equals one unit of electrical energy.

Home electrical supplies refer to all products and accessories that require electricity to operate and are used in residential buildings such as houses, apartments, and dormitories. The products under home electrical supplies range from vast choices of lighting supplies, heating supplies, alarms, security and CCTV supplies, ventilation supplies, water heaters, wiring accessories, electrical cable supplies, cable accessories, distribution and switchgear, control gear, plugs and sockets, electrical test equipment, electrical fixing, tools, conduit accessories, switches, and fuses.